Beauty 101

Hoodwinked

One of the most common questions I’m asked when it comes to applying makeup is how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes.  Just to clarify a “hooded eye” is when the lid of the eye is heavy and touches the top lashes obscuring the natural crease of the eyelid.

Those of us with hooded eyes painstakingly try to replicate gorgeous eyeshadow looks only to open our eyes and see it all disappear!

But before I go on with some techniques that might help you enhance your hooded eyes I’d like to point out that they are not a fault or defect, just another feature that makes us all unique and we should embrace it!

Still in doubt?  Check out these “hooded eye” beauties and you might think again!

 hooded eyes

So the magic question…

How to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes.

Well there are many ways but here are some tips I’ve discovered after years of trying different looks…

1)      Focus on the Lashes.  Curl them, coat them and coat them again!  Well defined lashes make the eye appear more open and soften the sharpness of hooded eyes.  Before you do anything curl your lashes to lift them and make them visible when looking at your eye front on, it may not sound like it will make a huge difference but it really does.  Coating your lashes well with a volumizing mascara will also open the eyes.  False lashes might not be fore everyone, I personally find them uncomfortable and only pull them out for special occasions but why not try some lash flares?  These are so easy to apply, look natural and feel like your own lashes.

2)      Define the Brows.  It may seem irrelevant to the look of the eyes but those of us with hooded eyes are fighting gravity.  The heavy lid can drag our appearance down and a well-defined brow with highlighter placed just below can lift the entire eye area. Try to develop a soft arch in the brows directly above the outer iris of the eye.  Not only does this look subtly sexy but it lifts and fights gravity.

3)      Avoid heavy dark eyeliner.  This just adds to the appearance of a small, closed up eye and makes the eye look even more deep set.  Instead opt for dark shadows to line the eyes and focus on the outer corners to create an almond effect. Heavy liner along the entire lash line just makes the area recede and look even worse.

4)      Build dimension.  Use shadow to create subtle dimension working on the principals of dark colours recede and light colours come forward.  A heavy monolid is very one dimensional and we need to put some shape into the contours.  See a step by step method of applying two shades of shadow here…

Hooded eyes tutorial

Step One.  Use a good eyeshadow base, this will help “grab” the shadow to the skin and is an important step as heavy lids tend to crease more.

Step Two.  Apply a medium depth shadow colour just above the natural eye crease and winging out to help the lid recede back.  Blend the edges well for a more natural effect.

Step Three.  Using a smaller brush apply a darker shade in the crease and outer corner, this will add to the dimension and make the outer lashes look thicker which lifts the eye.  Blend the darker shade well on the edges to merge into the medium shade.

Step Four.  Apply a medium shade beneath the lower lashes, if your lashes are short keep this fine, if your lashes are long you can make this much wider.

Step Five. Apply eyeliner to the outer corners blending into the darker shadow.

Step Six.  Coat the lashes with several layers of mascara.  To avoid clumping keep your mascara wands from used up product and wash them clean, these can be used to separate and de-clump the lashes between coats.

Other tips:

If your eyelids are creased avoid shimmer shadows and opt for matt shades. Shimmery colours highlight the texture of wrinkles in the skin.  You may like to save the shimmers however for the lower lash line where the skin tends to be smoother.

Avoid heavy eye creams at night as these tend to make the lids look heavier, instead opt for hydrating eye gels and lighter formulations.

If your heavy lids make your mascara transfer during the day use smudge proof formulas.  But be gentle removing these at night with a good eye makeup remover.

I hope these tips help you!  Please let us know if you have any questions and don’t hesitate to ask us to cover other makeup challenges or looks.

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